Monday. Burial of Jacques Chirac. My brother sends me photos of the main desert routes, waiting for the procession. In front of the Sacaï show, right on the path of the convoy, some find that we are doing a little too much for this president who ” had pots and pans “. In reality, it just practically bothers them. Some are also disgusted by the excess of sensitivity around Chirac.
At the Sakami show
The first passages show looks made of printed world map fabrics. And around the necks of young girls, necklaces are cannonballs, still a world map. It’s a direct way of saying that the only important reason right now is our planet. Then, the parade continues with what Sacaï certainly knows how to do, but which still succeeds in dazzling. Yes, it’s complicated, but it falls back on its feet in an obviousness which is a tour de force.
The ultra-transparent blouses reveal only one breast, it’s mesmerizing, and curiously of great modesty. The jumpsuits float on the bodies, as one-piece sets, which are also pants and blouses tied together.
The splendour of it all.
At the exit, I come across a cloud of photographers around the model Lexi Bolling. Like them, I take the photo. She lets herself go, placid among these people who shout her name. And then, suddenly I speak to her, I tell her that she looks exquisite and that it is a pleasure to see her, and the whole serious face blossoms in a kid-friendliness. Why don’t we talk more?
At the APC show
There is a family atmosphere at APC, even if I can’t find Judith and Jean Touitou in the courtyard, in the open air, where the show takes place. We are all on our feet, like schoolchildren on call on the first day of school. APC’s childhood is seen here. A colleague from Central Europe asked me to explain to him what makes APC so hyped, not only in the eyes of the French but also of Californians, for example. I tell him where Jean Touitou draws his love of simplicity: in a conviction that distances him from all the sirens of novelty. This hard-line held for so many years, everyone guesses that it is underpinned by real values. We are saying “true values”, that is the time.
And the clothes keep this promise of sobriety, even if the coats flare, which we are happy about. It is soothing and regressive. It’s homemade.
At the Chanel show
The next day, the last day of this long parade tunnel, we start with Chanel, where roofs of Paris have been reconstructed in the Grand Palais. No one talks about Karl in conversations, until the first passages, so steeped in Karl from the 90s, come to make us Madeleine of Proust. Virginie Viard begins thus, in short tweed, and it is a tenderness that speaks, with also her real love for these miniskirts. But the sumptuous succession, it comes after, in much more fluid things, stories of charming people at the same time completely Gabrielle and completely refreshing, two concepts that could sometimes coexist badly.
This lightness, even if the models are (too!) Far, let’s guess a thousand details, because it is Virginie’s art to refine, as we say. These golden fingers full of delicacy, disdaining the effect, the powder in the eyes, it’s a chic… When I go out, I see some clients rather flashy, it will do them good little exquisite measure. And I read in their eyes that they are seduced, moreover. They see themselves there, in great refinement. For a little bit, they would walk on the roof.
At the Miu Miu show
Even if it comes after everything else, we know that the Miu Miu parade is always good. Each and everyone talks about their fatigue. We show ourselves the images of Marie infiltrating, this girl who infiltrates everywhere, at the Chanel show. Carine Roitfeld captured the moment when Gigi Hadid “brought her out” (say some sharp languages). In reality, Gigi reacted rather brilliantly, taking the position two seconds to play the game, while negotiating a stage exit. Magisterial!
The Miu Miu fashion show, from the first passages, we understand that it will launch a fashion, already outlined by the Prada show a week before: a mixture of retro from the 40s and Nina Hagen. No overload, almost no accessories even if Miu Miu succeeds wonderfully. A small bracelet seems to be those things that you tie to your arm in concerts, so you can go out to smoke. The bags are modest and held at your fingertips, they are desirable to a point that immediately refreshes my row. The skirts are straight and with a large but sober ruffle at the bottom.
What a shame to enter the winter, when we could dress like this and go to some mysterious meeting…
At the Lacoste show
We are at Roland Garros. On a course. A real. With a real voice commenting on a match. In short, the crocodile is at home. The Lacoste look was created by Felipe Oliviera Batista and we find this traceability, especially in large polo dresses. Now, Louise Trotter designs the collections, she supports (and she’s right), on the tennis side of the brand. Modern Suzanne Lenglen is parading, even if the cameraman next to me is not Lartigue, at least not at this moment when he is struggling to find his angles, in the middle of all our heads.
In the end, the models are all in the middle of the course. They are beautiful than clay, incongruous. And suddenly a torrential rain falls on them. Yes, Roland Garros is often in the rain!
At the Louis Vuitton
show Last show. In front of the Louvre, light rain. This does not prevent fashion lovers from being there, drenched and nerd on this esplanade without any shelter.
Inside, everyone talks about what they are going to do next, that is to say, write (for fashion critics) and sleep, sleep, sleep.
On a huge section of the wall, Sophie’s face appears, a transgender musician idolized by a friend of mine, so I start frantically sending her videos! Few people recognize Sophie, the ” Who it is, you know?” Fuse. In the distance, but right in front of me, Bernard Arnault gazes placidly at the giant face.
A door opens in Sophie’s neck, and the models go out.
Pretty quickly, a wide jacket/pants look catches my eye. It reminds me a bit of the Balenciaga years of Nicolas Ghesquière (the famous artistic director of Vuitton). It’s crazy that this man does pants well. He has such originality that if he agrees to get involved in simpler things, they are inhabited by his crazy relationship to precision. A black suit, with a wide collar, is the illustration of what I have just written. Almost no one can do this unstoppable. As usual, each silhouette contains so many details that we should stay here two days watching the models go by. However, they must be very tired, the unhappy, although the beauty of their make-up, with vinyl mouths, of a slamming red, gives them the clarity of striking images.